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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:34 am 
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Kramer Maniac

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2016 10:10 am
Posts: 52
Sluggy wrote:
switchone wrote:
Sluggy wrote:

That's too deep. Useally it's 5/8" for a flush mounted Floyd.


Yes my white 83 deluxe with floyd is 5/8" my green special with esp flicker is 1 1/6"


Then the heel on the green special neck is thicker right??


No the neck heels on both are the same


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:40 am 
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Kramer Maniac

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switchone wrote:
Sluggy wrote:
switchone wrote:

Yes my white 83 deluxe with floyd is 5/8" my green special with esp flicker is 1 1/6"


Then the heel on the green special neck is thicker right??


No the neck heels on both are the same


Yup sorry, should be the same. The difference is the neck pocket depths depending on what trem was installed from the factory. Deeper pocket standard or flicker trem. 5/8" pocket for the Floyd.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:43 am 
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Sluggy wrote:
switchone wrote:
Sluggy wrote:

Then the heel on the green special neck is thicker right??


No the neck heels on both are the same


Yup sorry, should be the same. The difference is the neck pocket depths depending on what trem was installed from the factory. Deeper pocket standard or flicker trem. 5/8" pocket for the Floyd.


Even with the deeper pocket, I still have the problem of the fretboard overhand resting on the body with the 1/8" gap. It might be ok if I had a 21 fret neck


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:33 pm 
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Location: Central Indiana Chapter
Quote:
Even with the deeper pocket, I still have the problem of the fretboard overhand resting on the body with the 1/8" gap. It might be ok if I had a 21 fret neck


I am not a luthier, but your statement above has me scratch_head

if the pocket is too deep and the fret board is resting on the body, would you not want a shim to actually lift it?

The other issue I have is that I can't see any of the pictures you are posting- so maybe I am missing something.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:43 pm 
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menace wrote:
Quote:
Even with the deeper pocket, I still have the problem of the fretboard overhand resting on the body with the 1/8" gap. It might be ok if I had a 21 fret neck


I am not a luthier, but your statement above has me scratch_head

if the pocket is too deep and the fret board is resting on the body, would you not want a shim to actually lift it?

The other issue I have is that I can't see any of the pictures you are posting- so maybe I am missing something.


Yeah, some people can see them, some cannot. I'm linking them through google drive.

The problem I have is that the neck pocket depth is 1 1/16", the shim (old kramer factory shims) measure to about 1/8" inch in thickness.

This allows for the neck overhang rest on the top of the body. Which is all well and good, but the neck angle is too steep.

So at this point, I'm going to make a 1/8" thick full neck pocket shim to correct it.

I originally didn't want to do this, but sanding the top of the body directly under the fretboard overhand to allow the neck to sit in the pocket would probably damage the finish.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:47 pm 
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Good call.

Look at it this way. The shim is a reversible fix that can be reversed if it does not get you what you need.

Sanding the body is an all in proposition...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:01 pm 
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Kramer Kommander
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Location: Germany
It is a bit tricky but it can be done, slowly and with rather wide, smooth files, sides of the pocket protected with something suitable.

Full shim is the easier option, I'd also try that first. It will make the neck joint thicker and thus make the access to high notes a bit worse, but that's up to your taste.

If it's not much, you can thin out the end of the fretboard from below some 1-2 mm as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 3:27 pm 
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Kramer Maniac

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_xxx_ wrote:
It is a bit tricky but it can be done, slowly and with rather wide, smooth files, sides of the pocket protected with something suitable.

Full shim is the easier option, I'd also try that first. It will make the neck joint thicker and thus make the access to high notes a bit worse, but that's up to your taste.

If it's not much, you can thin out the end of the fretboard from below some 1-2 mm as well.


So you have heard of someone doing this?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 3:45 pm 
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I did stuff like that sometimes. Changing the angle or width of the neck pocket or thinning out the fretboard overhang usually works fine. The danger is always in overdoing it or going too fast.

I would not try carving the rounded end of the fretboard into the top, that is obviously the most complicated version, requires a router and will usually not work without a touch-up afterwards. Makes no sense either way.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:19 pm 
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Location: ON CAN
_xxx_ wrote:
I would not try carving the rounded end of the fretboard into the top, that is obviously the most complicated version, requires a router and will usually not work without a touch-up afterwards. Makes no sense either way.

Indeed.
Not the method to correct this.
Going with a full shim is the correct way. :thumbs


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