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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 4:09 pm 
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Kramer Maniac

Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:18 am
Posts: 40
For the EVH/5150 set up, what's the accurate way to block your Floyd?

Option 1: Add wood to the rear so the sustain block prevents you from pulling up, ensuring the bridge is 'level' but technically off the body

Option 2: Let the rear end of the bridge touch the body of the guitar. The pivot end of the bridge might be slightly higher to avoid interference.

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 6:51 pm 
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Kramer Kommander
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:34 pm
Posts: 1854
Location: ON CAN
Having the back end of the trem touch the body while the front is off the deck will:
Fuk with the radius of the saddles, fuk with the intonation & most of all, look like a 3rd grader set it up.
Should be set up for dive only with the plate flat on the deck.


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 7:20 pm 
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Kramer Maniac

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Posts: 40
How do you get it flat on the body? Does it not have to provide clearance for the pivot end?

Can shave down the saddle screws so they don't protrude for one...but the edges of the Floyd are still square not rounded for pivoting. Wouldn't it chew into the body?


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 10:20 pm 
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Kramer Maniac
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Posts: 468
Location: Springfield, OH
PsychoCid wrote:
How do you get it flat on the body? Does it not have to provide clearance for the pivot end?

Can shave down the saddle screws so they don't protrude for one...but the edges of the Floyd are still square not rounded for pivoting. Wouldn't it chew into the body?


Maybe Six is right about it lying right on the surface, but I prefer option 1 in your original question over option 2. ( because I also think gouging of wood at the front ends is possible) Maybe your desire is to have as much surface contact as you can get for propagation of sound or whatever vibe technical sort of reason a physicist can describe better than someone like me. But suffice it to say inserting a thin block of wood will give you plenty of contact and not damage the top of the body.
I have not personally started, as Six suggests, with the setup of the base plate right on top of the body. I believe with most of my axes, if I don't allow for any variation of bridge height, then I would be absolutely forced to shim the neck to achieve proper and acceptable string height above the frets.

A fender strat term gives you both options you suggested in the original post, but Six points out correctly you negate the fine tuning ability of the OFR bridge if you increase spring tension to back the tail into the body.
If you absolutely love the idea of the base plate lying against the top surface of the guitar, then the Japanese Gotoh Floyd has a fulcrum edge across the entire leading edge of the base plate, and I don't believe it will gouge out wood if you were able to manage a setup allowing maximum contact and proper string clearance without fret buzz or dead frets, etc.
Personally, I am open to the possibility of option 2 from the original question, but since I have not experimented with it myself, my scratch_head stance is to just add a block and vary the term post heights for action....

Is that helpful?

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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 4:22 am 
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Kramer Kommander
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Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2016 4:37 am
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Location: Germany
PsychoCid wrote:
Option 2: Let the rear end of the bridge touch the body of the guitar. The pivot end of the bridge might be slightly higher to avoid interference.


The problem with this option is that the trem arm will be too high for gripping it comfortably, due to the tilt. Thus I always go for the wood block or the usual trem stopper in the spring cavity, that way the trem stays level/parallel to the stings.

the leaning option is only doable if you can get the neck angle to the exact setting for the lowest possible pivot screws position with just enough clearance, so the arm has only a tiny amount of upwards tilt. Otherwise it's quite unplayable when it's like 1-2 inches higher that it's usual gripping position.

Radius issues were already mentioned above, that too of course.

If both options don't work: there is an option 3 which may work if the routing is not too big - glue a tiny wood or plastic block with double-sided tape on top of the body just behind the route, where the spring plate leans on the body. If you're lucky with the size of the route, it'll be almost invisible. You could look for something with matching color or finish it to match the body.


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 8:22 am 
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Kramer Kommander
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:34 pm
Posts: 1854
Location: ON CAN
PsychoCid wrote:
How do you get it flat on the body? Does it not have to provide clearance for the pivot end?

Can shave down the saddle screws so they don't protrude for one...but the edges of the Floyd are still square not rounded for pivoting. Wouldn't it chew into the body?

A couple things need to be addressed. The intonation screws can be shaved. If the spring plate is used or not.
Most of my findings were that when using the wood posts, they just go down far enough to allow the spring plate to rest flush.
This is mimicking xxx's suggestion of the wood block on the top rear of the rout. Not sure about the bushing insert style.
As far as chewing the wood, this being a 5150 replica, most would welcome the worn in look. dielaughing


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 1:01 pm 
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Kramer Maniac

Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:58 pm
Posts: 77
PsychoCid wrote:
How do you get it flat on the body? Does it not have to provide clearance for the pivot end?

Can shave down the saddle screws so they don't protrude for one...but the edges of the Floyd are still square not rounded for pivoting. Wouldn't it chew into the body?


All my floyds when they are flat to the body have clearance for the pivot. I also shave the saddle screws flush too.

You should have a spacer then the spring for the saddles then your block. Or spring then spacer then block.


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 12:24 am 
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Kramer Maniac

Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:18 am
Posts: 40
Ah very interesting, thank you much.

I have bushing posts and have removed the spring and spacer. I'll file down the saddle.screws and we'll see how.it all comes together.

Hope to have pics for you in a week or so!


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 6:33 pm 
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Kramer Maniac

Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:18 am
Posts: 40
Do these links work for you?

Image

Image


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 Post subject: Dive only options
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 8:49 pm 
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Kramer Kommander
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:34 pm
Posts: 1854
Location: ON CAN
I remember that body, you painted it in a box! :thumbs


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