How do you get it flat on the body? Does it not have to provide clearance for the pivot end?
Can shave down the saddle screws so they don't protrude for one...but the edges of the Floyd are still square not rounded for pivoting. Wouldn't it chew into the body?
Maybe Six is right about it lying right on the surface, but I prefer option 1 in your original question over option 2. ( because I also think gouging of wood at the front ends is possible) Maybe your desire is to have as much surface contact as you can get for propagation of sound or whatever vibe technical sort of reason a physicist can describe better than someone like me. But suffice it to say inserting a thin block of wood will give you plenty of contact and not damage the top of the body.
I have not personally started, as Six suggests, with the setup of the base plate right on top of the body. I believe with most of my axes, if I don't allow for any variation of bridge height, then I would be absolutely forced to shim the neck to achieve proper and acceptable string height above the frets.
A fender strat term gives you both options you suggested in the original post, but Six points out correctly you negate the fine tuning ability of the OFR bridge if you increase spring tension to back the tail into the body.
If you absolutely love the idea of the base plate lying against the top surface of the guitar, then the Japanese Gotoh Floyd has a fulcrum edge across the entire leading edge of the base plate, and I don't believe it will gouge out wood if you were able to manage a setup allowing maximum contact and
proper string clearance without fret buzz or dead frets, etc.
Personally, I am open to the possibility of option 2 from the original question, but since I have not experimented with it myself, my
stance is to just add a block and vary the term post heights for action....
Is that helpful?
I don't usually find a use for this smiley
, but I like so there you have it.